León to San Martín del Camino – 24.6km, 5.25 hours, Albergue Santa Ana, 32€

After walking northwest to León for two days, we switched to southwest for today and tomorrow towards historic Astorga, but we are still walking straight lines as ordered by Santo Domingo de la Calzadas. We are almost out of the Meseta but today’s walk had two options. From León it appears better to take the “Road” option, especially if it is raining (which it certainly was not today). From León to Astorga is 48.8km on the road option with several nice albergues in San Martín del Camino exactly half way between the two big cities. The Scenic route is 52km long to Astorga and the best way available to break it up with a bed is in stages of 28km and 24km. We were happy with the choice but but we heard some other pilgrims grumbling about it.

The walk out of León would have been challenging if not for GPS and other pilgrims who must know the route. There are very few signs that are obvious I say that as a hasher, someone who runs every week in the jungle or Singapore city centre following little blobs of sawdust or small white chalk arrows. Finding big fluorescent yellow arrows on the Camino should be easy if they are there.

We decided to walk past all the cafes in León and get breakfast #1 in a suburb. 4km from our hotel near the Cathedral, we found an Africa-themed bar (like a Molly Mallone’s but from Africa rather than Ireland). We had a slice of very nice tortilla, some churros, a large orange juice and a cup of coffee. When the bartender told be that the price was 3.60€, my head started to spin. We have paid more than that for half the food in big cities, medium towns, and small villages. It was so inexpensive that I went back to the woman and explained that there must be an error and we owe her money. She re-did the math and said it was correct. Wow. We highly recommend the place.

Walking the way today, as noted, we usually near a main road but often on a dirt, stone or gravel path. Yes, you could see and hear the cars but it wasn’t too bad and there were a lot of services along the way. The main things I recall are encountering two bicyclists on the thin dirt trail instead of the wide shoulder of the road (a two lane, trunk road, not a highway); meeting a nice Korean girl whose friends were doing their Camino by bus and taxi and, finally, one particular view that stuck out. That view was of the mountains we climb after Astorga. They aren’t the Alps, or even the Pyrenees, but they are our next challenge. They are the same mountains we saw a few days ago but they are just a lot closer now. The Cruz de Ferro is on top at 1,500m but we won’t see that until we round a bend in a few days.

Once we got to the albergue in SanMartin, we did all the usual showering, washing clothes, arranging bag transport, etc. but then we chilled for a while in the private room. When I say “chilled”, I mean we froze. It’s only 20ºC / 68ºF but we are almost shivering due to a lack of food energy, a loss of fat insulation and no radiant heat from the sun. As a result, we took a lesson from snakes and sat out in the patio to sun ourselves. It didn’t work too well though since we were too cold to take off our jackets, hats and scarves. Later we walked up to small market in town to get some provisions. The walk in the sun seems to have thawed both of us again. Hallelujah!

While we were sitting on the patio outside the albergue, we heard a very loud “thank you” and “buen Camino” in a woman’s voice. That was an odd combination of phrases that everyone sitting near us turned to look. It was a taxi that had stopped right in front of the albergue and two ladies got out with their bags and it was one of them wishing the driver a buen Camino. I think they are new at this. Melanie thinks that they would be fun to sit with and talk to over tonight’s pilgrim meal. Who knows?We both could be right.

More tomorrow. Peace y’all. Goodnight George and León – I mean Leo. Don’t let the bed bugs bite unless they floss first.

p.s. to George… I hope you and Leo got to watch the Orioles game on Sunday afternoon. It was one of the most exciting games ever and Oriole fans will be talking about it when you are as old as me. With the division on the line, the Orioles came back several times to win it. It was a fantastic Orioles game. Remember… Let’s go O’s!