Astorga to Foncebadón – 25.4km, 6.25 hours, Convento de Foncebadón, 55€

Yesterday was a tough day. I’m sorry for the bluuugh instead of a blog. As noted, about 3/4s of the way through the walk yesterday, Melanie felt a sharp pain in her lower back. It slowed her down considerably. I took over her bumbag but put it in my backpack. I didn’t want George giving me any grief. We got into Astorga later than we hoped and then we were slowed down by the crowd at the local laundromat. Not only did we have to wait a bit for a washer, there were several other pilgrims there who really wanted to ask a lot of questions. Normally, I can finish the blog by the time the dryer is finished. Then we went walking around trying to find a doctor who could see Melanie. The best she could get was a 10am appointment this morning. That wasn’t going to fly. Next, we did the speed tour of the cathedral which was beautiful but it was already 7:15pm. We spent the next half hour looking for food but it was still siesta time. Anyone we asked, told us to wait until at least 8pm. A second visit to one restaurant, however, got us in at 7:45pm. Oh boy, we win! Unfortunately, the waiters let us in and got us some drinks but the chefs were still asleep. By the time we were able to finish eating – and we did rush – in was after 9pm. That is our bedtime on the Camino. I “stayed up” to finish the blog at a pace of about 30 minutes per paragraph because I kept either falling asleep or I was “sundowning”. That’s a scary medical term.

At any rate, today was a brand new day and a much better day. Melanie took some vitamin I (ibuprofen)at breakfast time and some magic vitamin P+ later in the day. The second dosage was my paracetamol that I was given recently for some malady but it also had a muscle relaxant built in that could possibly make a patient sleepy. Melanie, while walking up a tough, rocky mountain, nearly fell asleep while still on her feet. Actually, she said there was a two hour period that she considered just laying down on the trail and taking a nap. My wife was overdosing on the Camino.

For some odd reason,we moved very slowly today but huge credit to my drugged up wife, she kept moving. She said that she felt no pain in her knee or ankle and the pain in her back was just a slight, dull feeling. There was no pain that slowed her down but if passed by a discarded pillow, we would have been in trouble.

Breakfast #1 was not too far from last night’s lodgings and it was delicious tostadas and a chocolate croissant (Napolitana), coffee and orange juice. After that, it was already 7:45am and I accepted it would be a long day. I just didn’t know how long. Once we were walking again, and Melanie shook off “we are moving again” muscle fatigue, we were walking at 4km per hour on the flat early stages. I did my calculations and added in time for several more breakfasts / toilet breaks and I estimated a 3pm arrival in Foncebadón. We had reserved beds at an albergue there but arriving that late meant we would both likely be in upper bunks. I prepared myself to embarrass some young cyclist into giving up his bottom bunk for Melanie but I was going to be climbing anyway and I steeled myself for it.

Breakfast #2 at the 9km mark in Santa Cantalina de Somoza was a delightful surprise as well as a disappointment. Walking into town, we met up with Bastine, Felix’s friend. At the second cafe (always go to the second cafe), we met Maja, Felix’s friend. We hoped Felix was not around. Unfortunately, Maja had bad shin splints and she had already called a taxi to take her to Foncebadón. There was no way for her to walk up the mountain in that shape, especially because Melanie already finished off all the drugs we had on hand. We also met Nancy who we have known since Orisson and Kathy, another early friend. Finally, several women we met in Bercianos and a couple we met in the laundry in Astorga walked with us a bit. It was a great reunion but we also heard stories of other friends stopping their Camino because of injury or sanity.

Eleven years ago, I vividly recall getting angry when I saw the pilgrims who joined the Camino in Sarria. Sarria is 114km from Santiago and the last big town you can start from and still get a Compostela (a certificate of completion). These new pilgrims behaved very differently, they were loud, running around, using support vans to take them up hills, never said a single “Buen Camino”, etc. I also remember though that on the same walk, I eventually accepted that these people were pilgrims too and it wasn’t up to me to judge how they walked their Camino. By the time I got to Santiago, I was at peace with them.

I knew that I had to prepare myself once again, that the last 100km is very different. I wasn’t worried about that yet though, because it’s still almost a week away. Or so I thought. Maybe I just didn’t realize it last time but I was shocked today to see so many pilgrims who were doing their first day today and had started in Astorga. They stuck out like a sore thumb that was being shoved in my eye. They were certainly loud. They wore clothes that sparkled and probably still had the price tag attached. Shoes were bright white and boots had never been covered in mud. “Buen Camino’s” we’re often ignored by them or they had a really cheery reply. They haven’t gone through the blisters, shin splints, falls, sprains, rain storms, floodwaters, hail, mountains, mesetas, blistering sun, ice cold nights, albergues with no working showers, snoring and night farts. How dare they?

Of course, the answer is that they dare because they can and it is none of my business how and when they do their Camino. It’s a lesson I am learning once again. Walking from St Jean Pied de Port gives me as much authority to judge as the law degree I got from Columbia School of Legal Stuff after doing all ten on-line lessons and mailing them $100 in cash with a stamped, self-addressed envelope.

Finally, here is good proof that my memory is slipping. I had made the reservation for today’s albergue by phone a couple of days ago. I was worried that I had no email or phone message to prove it. I didn’t need to worry though, I forgot I had reserved a private room and bath. No one will be shaming anyone tonight.

That’s enough for today. Melanie still has to proofread this but she is still stoned. Peace y’all, Let’s go O’s. Goodnight George & Leo. Don’t let the bedbugs bite. Tell them that Daddy tastes better.