O Porriño to Redondela – 16.5km, 4.0hours, Tuesday, 24 September

Well that was fun!  We expected some rain today and it was some rain we got. We didn’t repeat the floods of last year; it was just a steady hard drizzle from the moment we set off to about a kilometer before we arrived.  The rain was what the Irish would call a lovely day – not overpowering but enough that we had to wear our ponchos.  Of course, as I’ve said before, ponchos / backpack covering raincoats don’t keep you dry, they keep the clothes in your backpack dry and they keep you warm.   You will be drenched in sweat while walking this far while wearing a raincoat so you will be wet either way.  And drenched we were. 

By the way, the rain was also the reason for the lack of photos from the trail today. By the time the rain stopped we were along the main road into Redondela. Sorry.  As we were descending one hill just at the edge of Redondela, there was a stunning view of the valley that the town is in.  You’ll just have to imagine while I try to remember it. 

We only stopped twice for food today.  That is a consequence of only four hours of walking.  The first stop was just down the street from last night’s apartment – five minutes after starting.  I only had fresh orange juice which never is disappointing in Spain.  Melanie fueled up on tostadas and butter and a cafe con leche grande. The bartender brought over several mini croissants to us because Melanie was clearing all the tables of dirty plates.  One day when I’m hungry, I have to remember that trick.  The second stop was in Mos, about 7km into the walk. That place was jam packed with soggy pilgrims but they fortunately opened the back room for the overflow.  The sign inside the front door said to wait there to order and get seated.  Sadly, large groups of people ignored that and went around the bar to demand service.  While Melanie went to the toilet queue, I waited at the side of the bar next to the entrance as instructed.  The bartenders were very busy but eventually one of them said loudly in Spanish that if anyone wanted service, they had to ge to the end of the bar where I was.  So that is exactly what they all did, muscling in front of me because they were “there first”.  Some of them might have been but I know several were not. I reminded myself that it wasn’t time to press my rights.  I wasn’t in a hurry.  But I was also reminded that the Spanish are wonderful hosts on the Camino.  Almost all staff at albergues, hotels, B&Bs, bars, cafes, restaurants, etc. have been very kind and caring. They really are a lovely people.  Spanish pilgrims, on the other hand, can be pretty awful.  Not all of them, of course, but a sizable portion seem to feel they have a right to ignore queues, get served first, talk very loudly in accommodations and on the trail, talk on the phone on the trail, walk in large groups that make it hard to pass, ignore other pilgrims, etc.

Today, I was reminded that we were walking some sections on what once was “Via Romana XIX”.  (I.e., Roman Road XIX.  I’m not sure of the translation of that last word but I think it rhymes with “six”). The bridge in Ponte de Lima was part of the road.  Today we were walking on the Roman road, along side of a modern looking, two lane main road.  If the Romans could only see now how well the neighborhood has done.

We arrived in Redondela at 1:00pm and I finally see many places I remember from our last walk here, ten years ago.  Over the past few days, I was amazed how little I recognized places.  Today, I this town, I know the old town very well and could see places where we ate, had drinks with friends, slept in the albergue, etc.  the municipal albergue, where we stayed last time and convinced us to avoid them when possible was just opening its doors as we passed by.  There was a queue of at least 80 pilgrims waiting to get in but the place only has 42 beds. They also don’t let you dry clothes outside on their property which is why ten years ago, I stood in a nearby field one day with my clothesline stretched between a fence and a tree and waited for fellow pilgrims to bring me drinks and food.  Also, that night, a dozen or so drunk pilgrims came back to the albergue a minute before the door was locked and the lights were supposed to be turned off. It took them two hours before they passed out.  Those were the days.

After checking into our apartment today, the wonderful Ático48, we got in some badly needed exercise.  It is a 4th story walk up attic with 54 steps. Other than that, it really is lovely. We quickly showered and raced off to the laudromat.  We figured it would be crowded there today since everyone needed to at least dry their clothes.  We got there first (big win!). While I manned the laundry duties, Melanie went in search for some fruit that we have been missing. In her words, this is how that endeavor turned out:

I was at the supermercado (supermarket) to buy some fruit. When I got to the check out counter, the woman said “ah, we have to weigh this”. I said in my best Spanish, “so sorry”. She says, “Don’t worry, be happy.” So I started to sing the Bobby McFerrin’s song.  Then the cashier lady started to sing, too.  And then the person after me who was so patiently waiting for me to be rung up, started to sing along too. The people in the supermercado were all laughing and complimenting the checkout person on her English. It was hysterical!

If Melanie can’t find an old friend in town, she just makes new ones. That’s my newest lesson learned on the Camino.

Peace y’all 

Good night George and Leo. Save an apple for me.