I am not going to say much about the walk today.  It was relatively flat, easily manageable and it had many stunning views. (You can’t tell that from the photos though. They all look like they were taken in the same place.) That won’t change for a while, I don’t think. Today was more about the people that we met along the way.

We were walking at an impressive pace today and about to complete 4.8km in the first hour.  Then nature called to Melanie and when you are out in nature and it calls, you have to respond in nature.  She found some bushes to sort of hide behind and I kept watch.  Sure enough, two pilgrims rounded the bend and were heading our way within seconds.  Hurry girl!  It turned out to be Roger and Carol who I had to detract their attention.  I pointed out a distant mountain on the other side of the road (Hurry Melanie!) and said that it looks like snow at the top.  They looked for the snow but Roger also noticed that I was carrying Melanie’s backpack and that I was alone.  So he pointed out that there was a goat at the top of the mountain, in the snow.  He is quick.  Carol asked for a photo of the goat. And we just shook our head. Anyway, we got to walk and talk with them all the way to the golf course near Cirueña where we got a refreshing drink in the clubhouse.  

A short time after Cirueña, we heard a familiar voice slowly getting closer to us.  It was Susi and she was talking with a man.  We didn’t want to interrupt them so we just kept up our pace.  Eventually they caught up and we had nice conversation with them almost until Santo Domingo de la Calzada. She was walking with Brian who we had seen before but never met. 

At Santo Domingo, there is a famous Cathedral well worth visiting.  Well, I say well worth visiting but it costs 5€ to go in so for the third time, we didn’t visit it but we did stop to get a sello (stamp) in our credencial (pilgrim passport).  As I went to the entrance a woman was walking away saying that it was closed and that confused me.  I saw someone go in just 30 seconds before. I went ahead and tried to pull the door open and it opened.  I looked back at her to hold the door for her and she had this look like “oh fine, pull instead of push”.  I felt so superior.  After getting the credential stamped I came out, caught up to her and chatted with her.  She seemed quite happy for the company.  As we spoke, I learned that Donna was from Massachusetts and had started only seven days ago from St. Jean Pied de Port on the other side of the Pyrenees.  She walks very impressive distances and fast.  She obviously slowed down to chat.  I also learned that she has barely spoken to anyone while walking so far, beyond the “Buen Camino” and “Hola”.  I told her the story of the woman last night who has been eating alone every day and she said that she was also eating alone.  This is breaking my heart. It is certainly not what the Camino is about and all pilgrims have to do better.  As it was her first Camino, I gave her tips on how to engage pilgrims while walking and how to invite other pilgrims to join her for meals.  I hope it helps. After a while, she had to get back to her pace so we bid farewell and I pray that the Camino provides more companionship for her.

The last couple we met was the most surprising to me.  They were only a few years younger but they looked very fit and carried no backpack (which is perfectly fine!!).  The conversation started like this:

Melanie: Hola!  Buen Camino.

Husband: Hola.  Where are you from?

Melanie: I’m from Singapore and that is where my husband and I live.

Husband: Wow! We are from Maryland, just outside Washington DC.  Do you know that area?

Me: (in my normal sarcastic voice) I’m vaguely familiar with the area.  I grew up in Baltimore.

Wife:  (after a brief shriek)  Where in Baltimore?

Me: North Baltimore.

Wife: where in North Baltimore?

Me: Govans.

Wife: What?!?  Where in Govans?  What street?

Me:  You first.

Wife:  I grew up on Bellona Avenue.

Me: (after a slight shriek) What house number on Belona Avenue?

Wife: We lived next to Pinehurst Liquors. 

Me: You’re a Smith!

Husband: Oh God, here we go.

Me: You are Andrew’s sister (I went to high school with him) 

Wife: Yes!  Where did you live?

Me: At the corner of Rosebank and Bellona.

Wife:  You are a Smith too!  Mary Quinn was in my high school car pool.  (Quinn is my younger sister)

From there we just spoke about the old neighborhood and the Camino. We had grown up one kilometer away from each other and we knew some of each other’s siblings and we now live 15,500km away but at that moment in time, on the Camino de Santiago, not too far from Grañon, we met.  Camino miracles happen every day. By the way, we all started today in Azofra but they were walking 15km further than us today.  37km in total. I did say they were fit, didn’t I?

 One somber note that came up in our conversation.  While my former neighbor was crossing the Pyrenees last week, they passed by a man getting CPR and waiting to be evacuated by helicopter. He didn’t make it.  If you haven’t had time to train, there is no shame in starting your Camino from Roncesvalles, Pamplona or anywhere else along the way. Stay safe and know your limits. 

The final story of the day involves arriving in Grañon.  We arrived at 1:00pm, just when our pensión would allow us  in. I checked Google Maps and started walking toward the pensión. As we rounded the first corner, we were accosted by an elderly local who was yelling at us in Spanish.  After the initial shock, I realized that she was asking where we were going. In between shouts, I tried to pronounce the name of the pensión but her admonishments told me that there was no such place. Eventually, she asked one of her friends and collectively they decided I should walk straight up Calle Mayor (Main Street) 100m. That didn’t look right on my map but she blocked our way forward and had no chance to ignore her.  It turned out she was right.  Screaming Spanish grandmom 1, Google maps 0

Peace y’all.  Goodnight George, Leo and Stella