San Juan de Ortega to Burgos – 24.6km, 6.25 hours, Palacio de los Blasones, 92€

The first part of the walk today was lovely. Yes, I only had a mini-pack on my back but the trail was in a forest, on flat land and too early in the morning for the majority of gnats to wake up. It was glorious. We didn’t start too early, only at 7:10am but that didn’t make as much a difference as we expected. The guidebook said today’s trail was 26.1km but there were so many alternative routes. As best we could, on purpose or not, we took the shortest route.

Do you remember that I had previously said that when we see the town we are walking to, we are always joyous? I’ll eat those words now. Our first view of Burgos today was at the 3km mark in the walk. The closest buildings of the nearest suburb were only about 12km away at that point but we could see the city laid out behind them too.

We stopped in Agés for a small breakfast, more to put something in our stomach before taking ibuprofen. Shortly after that, we walked through Atapuerca then up the day’s only real climb. It was not easy going partially because it was steep but more so was because of all the small rocks that were underfoot the entire way. I am certain that at least half of Spain’s rocks came to the Alto de Montegrande to give birth to future rocks.

The hilltop features a lovely cross and so many rocks that some pilgrims had spent many hours up there to rearrange thousands of into patterns, mazes, designs, etc. Some people don’t understand my “let’s keep moving” attitude so I guess it’s okay that I don’t understand their “let’s sit on the ground for a while and make art.

It was climbing down from Rock Mountain that we decided to not turn to the villages of Cardeñuela Riopico and Orbaneja. And continue on an alternative, more direct route to Burgos. It was also clearly marked the whole way but I missed the turn off towards the nicer entry into Burgos, along the rive. Once again, we walked through almost 10km into Burgos, along its industrial suburb’s main road. It’s life but I’m sorry I missed the turnoff to the river. The tarmac and hard sidewalk route is fortunate however but only in that it was never burdened with adjectives such as lovely, beautiful, interesting, or even “barely tolerablel”.

After finally getting into our hotel and did our bathing and laundry duties, we asked the receptionist about a nearby sports injury doctor or a physiotherapist. Luckily, only 100m away was a physio wow specialized working with pilgrims. According to the website, he opens up again at 5:00pm after siensta. We went over to get in any queue (the was none) and wait until 5:00pm. As that time came and went, we found a mobile number for the guy and he was on WhatsApp. The doctor said he was taking the night off but he would be happy to come in Saturday morning. All that means is that we are now staying in Burgos at least two nights. Everything hinges on his diagnosis, prognosis and potential advice. We will find out soon enough but right now, it’s 11:00pm and I’m writing rubbish because I’m so tired.

More tomorrow. Peace y’all. Goodnight George and Leo.