As hikes go, I can’t imagine a better one than today. Everything was perfect including fantastic trails, breathtaking scenery, and varied weather without any extremes.  13 years ago, we descended from the mountain in torrential rain and howling winds so we mostly just walked down the main road.  Two years ago, we walked almost the same itinerary as today but it was a blistering hot sunny day.  That day, we were so drained by the heat, that we did much of the route on the main road as well.  The third time was the charm. Today we had wind and some rain but not too much. We did still do one small section on the trail along the road but we finally got to do most of the scenic trail and it was awesome.

We decided to start today’s walk only after daylight since there was a light rain, the trail to O Cebreiro was a bit tricky but provided stunning views, and the O Cebreiro church only opened at 9:00am.  Those first 2km that took us to O Cebreiro at the top of the mountain was quite cold and wet but we were rewarded by a bagpiper who serenaded into town in the most Galician way.  While the church was indeed opened, the person who normally stamps our credentials wasn’t there so we just said some prayers and left. 

Still with a drizzle and wind, our next 15km was spent along the spine of the mountain, bouncing up and down between 1,200m and 1,350m.  The views were fantastic even though, occasionally, we were either in the clouds or above them. We were a little more exposed to the winds at this point but it wasn’t going to knock me over or anything. I’ve lost some weight on this Camino but not THAT much.  While on top of the mountain, we needed a pee break. I can just find any “lava-tree” but I checked the map for Melanie and the next bar was 4km away in Alto de Poio.  She was pleasantly surprised though to find an unexpected bar  in Hospital de la Condesa after only 1km more. I was happy too as it meant breakfast #2 for me. 

Breakfast #3 was in Fonfría, about the 14km mark and still before the start of the descent.  We stayed at the albergue / bar 13 years ago on a very memorable night. Today’s weather was better but a different storm was brewing.  We met J.J. There, a young Canadian boy who we met last night after dinner.  We chatted again with him a breakfast #1 as he was about to start the day’s hike. Them minutes after he left, he came rushing back in and taking everything out of his backpack.  After searching everything, he explained (in English) to the albergue owner (who only speaks Spanish and Gallego) that he lost his watch and needs the key to his bunk room to check his bed. After some comical back and forth, JJ was able to get the key and he found his watch still sitting on the bed. Great success!  But four hours later, we meet him again and he was rifling through his backpack. He could not find his credentials – the document that proves that you are a pilgrim to Santiago.  Melanie calmed him down a bit and asked when he was sure he last had it.  Panicked, he replied “five minutes ago when the barmaid stamped it.  Melanie was going to ask the barmaid but JJ said he already checked with her.  Then Melanie asked the Filipino man who was cleaning the bar area and he said right away “I just turned in a credencial to the front desk. It was just sitting on the bar.”  Problem solved. We saw JJ again at dinner and he seemed calm.  He hadn’t figured out what he was missing yet.

Once we got out of Fonfría, we soon started a 600m descent. It was spread over 9km but the descent wasn’t entirely easy;  there were plenty of steep bits.  That distance may have just started beside the road but it was mostly in lovely forests or occasional small towns. For the day,  our total ascent was a surprising 1,268 and the total descent was 1, 578m.

I should not the say was also special because the hotel washed our clothes for us and I think that makes three days in a row that I have had privilege of not spreading any time on the laundry at all.  Melanie and I also had the privilege of having dinner with  new friend, Lee from Malaysia.  Our friends we ate with last night, Poh and Susi, ditched us to walk 2km further so they could stay in an vegan albergue that forbids meat in their building.  We will catch up with them tomorrow. We bought a chorizo for both of them.  😉

I’m falling asleep so, you know the rules, this hasn’t been proofread.  Enjoy the mistakes and figuring out what I meant to say.  

Peace y’all. Goodnight George, Leo and Stella. We love you all.