As Caminos go, it was the best of days, it was the worst of days. There is always a curveball out there that through you off. This will be brief because of the tough part of the day.
We started walking today at 6:45am and got 5km in the chilly night air before sunrise. You don’t see much but it saved us an hour walking in the hot sun later. In fact, because of unusual cloudy skies, we walked 14km in about three and a quarter hours which wasn’t a bad pace and it was delightful weather for a walk. So far so good.
We left long before cafes opened in Santo Domingo but that was okay. We knew in Grañón at 7km, breakfast was available. The first place we saw the is a large tent covering a snack shop. We skipped by that because we also needed a toilet break. The funny thing is that we were told later that they did have access to toilets around the back, behind the tent. I wish I knew that because the second and third cafes in Grañón were both closed because of the weekend. Buggers. It was okay though because they would have food at the next town, at the 10.7km mark… unless, of course, it’s Saturday when the cafe is closed. The next town, at 12.4km also had a cafe…. which is closed on weekends.
All of that walking on an empty stomach had to be for a reason though and we found it at the tiny village of Viloria de Rioja at the 12.4km mark. Viloria de Rioja is the birthplace of Santo Domingo de la Calzada, the builder of bridges for pilgrims and the patron saint of engineers. His 1019 baptismal font is still in the church across the street from his birth house. His house stood until 1980 when the roof collapsed. Just as important though was the house behind the church. That is called the Inner Camino House.
We stopped there for 90 minutes which we have had such a long stop before. Danny and his wife, Carola, a Dutch / Swedish couple, were inspired to open their house to pilgrims. Everyone is invited in to sit in the gardens or terrace or dining room to relax. They also had a nice bathroom. In the kitchen, there was massive amounts of food including boiled eggs, cut fruit, biscuits, yogurt, bread, cheese, cold cuts, pastries, butter, fresh squeezed orange juice, coffee any way you like it, etc. The deal was that if you took food, you cleaned up after yourself. Also, if you were able, you donated money to let the couple keep providing the service to other pilgrims. Danny played us a song he wrote about his Caminos and half the room was crying by the end. Melanie and I, and a few other pilgrims, stayed back to dry all the dishes for 50 or so pilgrims, straighten up the room for incoming pilgrims and carried in the groceries (a full carload including the boot and backseat of an SUV – a three day supply of food for the house). Before we left, we had a long talk with Danny and he asked us to stay back as volunteers. This year it is impossible but next year, who knows? It will be a Holy Year with many more pilgrims and they could use the help. We don’t walk in Spain during those busy years.
Melanie and I shared one special moment on the last leg of today’s walk. I put my fist up and she immediately gave me a fist bump. She was thinking of the same accomplishment. For the first time in nine days, we passed two pilgrims on the trail. I know in a few weeks we will be passing by new pilgrims often but so far, we were the slowest. A French couple now holds the tortoise prize. By the way, those people whizzing past us all the time often take long breaks in the bars. They pass us several times every day because of that and they only get to their stop for the night at most a half hour before us. And often less.
By the time we left the Inner Camino House, the sun was out but we only had 8-9km to go to Belorado. There was one more cold drink stop at the 17.8km mark which helped as the exposed trail along a highway was pretty hot. We easily found our way to our old favorite Hotel Jacobeo about 2:00pm, just in time to find out that I had screwed up. They had no reservation for us and I discovered, I had no proof that I had made one. I obviously forgot. Ugh! After some strategizing, we walked around the town asking every hotel if the had a room. They didn’t we managed to get into an albergue. By the time we finished showering, three pilgrims were napping near our bed and all were snoring like volcanos. I can’t wait for tonight.
Once we settled in the albergue, we set out for a late lunch and to the laundromat to wash the clothes. We almost missed the time to wash the clothes though as were met Doc Martin and Paddy at the bar. We had a great time talking to these two Irishmen from Belfast but it would be even better if we could understand them. At dinner, much to our surprise and delight, we ran into Tom, Carl & Declan again too. They changed plans and walked one more day. I’ll be watching to see if they walk again tomorrow but I think there is slim chance at that. Tom and Declan would murder the drill sergeant if he suggest that.
It is lights out time at the albergue so I have to go.
Peace y’all. George, Leo & Stella, go to sleep! We love you all.
