Day 31 – Ribadiso da Baixo to O Pedrouzo, 22.7km,  5:25hrs

Today was a nice day for a walk to get into position to arrive in Santiago tomorrow.  I started early at 7:00am sharp while Melanie needed one more day to rest her knee.  I had 3km to walk into Arzúa and planned to have some breakfast there. Boy! Was I disappointed. The first, and only, place I found to get breakfast happened to be the same cafe where last year, Melanie, I, and the couple from Hong Kong bussed all the tables, taking the used glasses, cups, saucers, plates, silverware, etc up to the bar and stacked it nicely so it could go straight into the dishwasher. This time, there were few people in the bar and only one waiting to order.  I stood a step back so he got served first, then stepped up to the bar while the barmaid fixed his order.  She turned around and acknowledged me in a way that said “I’ll be with you in a moment”. Just then, three Spanish pilgrims walked in and the one in front ordered three coffees with tostadas as he headed to a table. When the barmaid started making his coffees, I wasn’t happy.  I was reminded though of Jesus’ instructions to his Apostles… if you are not welcomed in a town, shake the dust from your sandals and go to the next town.  I could deal with that.  I went back and put my backpack and gloves back on and picked up my trekking poles to leave.  The barmaid happened to be walking past me towards the Spaniards as I was walking out the door.  I quickly reminded myself that I’m not as kind as Jesus so I added one more thing.  I said “Gracias” to her… “por nada”.  

I love these paths carved into the earth by the feet of pilgrims, over a millennium.

Even before breakfast, I was not in the best of moods anyway.  Obviously, I was missing my walking buddy.  Also, as soon as I laid down on the bed yesterday, I knew I was in trouble.  The mattress was as soft and unsupported as Trump’s reason for going to war with Iran.  After five minutes of resting on it, my back ached like I had been flogged. Sure enough, I was so tired from yesterday’s walk, I did fall asleep right away last night but when I woke up, I had cramps but also an immovable back.  I prayed before looking at the clock, that it was almost 6:00am when Melanie’s alarm would sound. No such luck. I could get back to sleep for the four hours. I did toss and turn a lot and that just made my back worse.

The walk today went though a eucalyptus forest which was not only cool but also pretty fragrant. I pity any pilgrim walking this section if they don’t like the smell of eucalyptus. 

Since it took me a half hour to write those last two sentences, I think I’ll go to sleep.  I wish I had more time in the day but it is what it is.

Peace y’all.  Good night Stella, Leo & George.

The lighter bark identifies the eucalyptus trees
These ducks almost became our dinner three years ago
You can ride a horse and get a Compostela
Santa Irene’s old monument has been turned into a pilgrims’ memorial
There are lots of these sobrring around the way
The church in Pedrouzo had a daily pilgrim mass at 7:00a.m, Melanie walked the 700m each way but it took about 20 minutes each way too.

1 thought on “Day 31 – Ribadiso da Baixo to O Pedrouzo, 22.7km,  5:25hrs”

  1. !Buen Camino today for your triumphant last leg into Santiago DC. I hope your back us better, you deserve get better breakfast service and Melanie is recovered well enough to enjoy the moment. 🥾🥾😎 Best wishes for a great last day. Maggie. 🥰

    Maggie Rikard-Bell Karijini Cattle Company 503 Boobalaga Rd Crookwell NSW 2583 Australia

    maggie.rikardbell@gmail.com +61 (0)417 481 458

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