It was a foggy walk this morning but we couldn’t tell at first. We started walking at 6:50am, about an hour before sunrise. My torch lit the trail only a few meters ahead of us. I could feel a few raindrops but we never even covered our packs. When the sun was able to cast enough light, it appeared at first that there was an approaching line of rain only about 50m away. After a few seconds to adjust our focus though, we figured out it was just fog. 

Our first chance for some breakfast was at Atapuerca at the 6.3km mark.  We were both keen but the first place we came to had 30 pilgrims outside a tiny grocery store. People were sitting on the eight outdoor seats, as well as on the curb and brick planters too.  We thought about trying the second place in town but we were burned by that already. Two many times, there wasn’t a second chance for food or everything else was closed for the day. We queued up, got our small breakfast, and stood outside to eat it. The as we left, only 20m further on, there were three empty benches to sit on. Another 40m further down the way, there was also a cafe open with no pilgrims inside. We just didn’t see these things as we approached the tiny grocery  store because of the angle of the road.  Location, location, location!

Just at the end of the village, we ran into Martin and Paddy who were adjusting their gear while getting ready to start walking.  Still at a distance about 20m away, I called out “Get on you bike and move!”  They just stared back at us, looking a bit irritated with that comment.  I doubled down anyway and said “Let’s go!  This is a walk, not a ‘stand still’”.  It still took a second or two, then they laughed.  I forgot that we have never actually seen each other on the trail before, only after we changed into our after-walk clothes. They hadn’t recognized us in our gear that covers us up so much.  Finally, Martin said “Oh, it’s you two.  We were just surprised to see you out of your taxi”.  Swine!

There were several options for the trails into Burgos, all of them go over a steep hill where 40% of the world’s supply of rocks are grown.  The footing is very challenging so we were slowed down more than elevation changes normally do.  At the top, we are normally rewarded with great views of Burgos, the entire plain it sits on as well as the distant mountains.  Today though, the fog still hadn’t lifted enough to see all of of that. 

Closer to Burgos, there is also the traditional route that goes north of the airport them several kilometers through a soul-destroying industrial area. We were telling everyone who would listen a day earlier to take an alternative route south of the airport and then through a lovely shaded park along a river.  That alternative didn’t used to be sign-posted well so pilgrims missed it.  We described how to find it for everyone.  It turns out though that now, most pilgrims use an app with a map that makes it obvious. Our experience is no longer needed, I guess. At least we were the only ones who cut across a weed-covered field like the pilgrims did previously who knew the access to the river route.  

Once in Burgos, we checked into the same small hotel we have stayed in on our last two times here.  Just around the corner, near the cathedral, there is our favorite bar were we always hang out and get dinner and breakfast the next morning. It is just a few doors away from a laundromat where we can clean our clothes while still enjoying a sangria or beer.  We arrived at the bar at 3:40pm and were told “the kitchen is closed and the bar will close at 4:00pm.  Siesta time?  No!  Apparently they always close early on Mondays and they are closed all day on Tuesdays!  I cried!  We did manage to find a good restaurant that was open straight through siesta time so we could eat dinner at 6:30pm. We were joined by a Brazilian couple, Lily and Reginaldo. 

I should note here that I wrote about a paragraph and a half of this post last night before falling asleep with the iPad in my hands.  I woke up again at 2:30am in the exact same position.  Buggers.  I finished it this morning while Melanie was on a business call back to Singapore.  I’m happy that today is a shorter walk but I’m sorry for the delay. 

Peace y’all.  Good MORNING George, Leo and Stella!